Saint Laurent's Spring/Summer 2019 collection, as showcased in Vogue and across various fashion publications, represented a fascinating intersection of heritage and modernity, a bold statement within the ever-evolving landscape of high fashion. While the prompt mistakenly mentions "Saint Laurent Fall 2019 Ready-to-Wear," the focus here will be on the *Spring/Summer 2019* collection, as that is the season most prominently associated with Vogue's coverage and subsequent critical analysis. This article will delve into the key elements of the collection, examining the runway looks, beauty choices, model casting, and the overall critical reception, painting a comprehensive picture of YSL SS19's impact and lasting legacy.
The Collection: A Dialogue Between Past and Present
Anthony Vaccarello, the creative director at the helm, continued his exploration of Saint Laurent's iconic aesthetic, but with a distinct spring-summer twist. Gone were the overwhelmingly dark and brooding silhouettes of some previous collections. While the brand's signature rock-and-roll attitude remained, SS19 presented a lighter, more fluid approach. This wasn't a complete departure from the house's heritage; instead, it was a nuanced evolution. The collection spoke to a modern woman, empowered yet sensual, confident yet subtly playful.
The palette was a significant departure from the typical Saint Laurent dark palette. While blacks and deep jewel tones certainly featured, they were balanced by vibrant pops of color – bold yellows, sunny oranges, and refreshing greens. These brighter hues were often incorporated into tailored pieces, injecting a sense of unexpected optimism into the otherwise classic silhouettes.
The silhouettes themselves were a masterful blend of sharp tailoring and relaxed fluidity. The iconic Saint Laurent tuxedo suit, a cornerstone of the brand's identity, was reimagined in lighter fabrics and bolder colors, sometimes featuring unexpected details like exaggerated shoulders or asymmetrical cuts. This juxtaposition of structure and fluidity was evident throughout the collection, from the sharply tailored jackets paired with flowing trousers to the structured mini dresses that hinted at a sense of playful rebellion.
Runway Looks: A Masterclass in Modernity
Several runway looks from the YSL SS19 collection stand out as particularly impactful. The opening looks often set the tone for the entire show, and in this case, the initial outfits, characterized by sleek, minimalist tailoring in vibrant colors, perfectly encapsulated the collection's overall theme. These looks were immediately striking, showcasing Vaccarello's ability to create pieces that were both timeless and undeniably modern.
The inclusion of sheer fabrics, often layered over structured pieces, created a sense of intrigue and subtle sensuality. These sheer elements, particularly in dresses and blouses, added a touch of unexpected femininity, contrasting with the sharp lines of the tailoring. This layering technique, a recurring motif throughout the collection, allowed for a fascinating interplay of textures and transparency.
The use of bold accessories further enhanced the impact of the runway looks. Oversized belts cinched the waist, creating a dramatic silhouette, while statement jewelry added a touch of glamour. The footwear, a mix of towering platforms and sleek stilettos, reinforced the collection's confident and powerful aesthetic.
Specific memorable looks included: a vibrant yellow tailored suit with exaggerated shoulders, a sheer black dress layered over a structured slip, and a series of shimmering sequinned mini dresses that captured the playful energy of the collection. These stand-out moments were carefully curated to showcase the range and versatility of the collection, demonstrating the designer's ability to create a cohesive narrative through diverse yet interconnected pieces.
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